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TRAVEL JOURNAL
1. State
of Emergency to State of Bliss (April
25, 2009)
2. Falling
for Bhutan (April 27, 2009)
3. Bad
habits in Bhutan (April 30, 2009)
4. The
National Crematorium (May 5, 2009)
5. TRONGSA (May 20, 2009)
6. The
Real Magic Kingdom (May 22, 2009)
7. The
Hub Club (May 23, 2009)
8. Back
to the Promised Land (November 29,
2009)
9. Make Believe
Country (December 5, 2009)
10. In
Bhutan, Skateboarding is a Crime (December
7, 2009)
11. Ride
of a Lifetime (December 11, 2009)
12. Government
Has a Campaign (December 14, 2009)
13. At the Carwash (December 17, 2009)
14. Driving to India (December 21, 2009)
15. Romeo & Juliet, the Indian Version (December 24, 2009)
16. Tiger Tracks (December 29, 2009)
17. How I learned to Text (December 31, 2009)
18. Pinatubo (January 19th 2010)
19. Catching a Buzz in Bhutan (July 13th, 2010)
20. Chilies and Cheese (July 15th, 2010)
21. The Falkand Islands (October 24, 2010)
22. Sea Lion Island, Falkland Islands (October 24, 2010)
23. The Falklands War (October 25, 2010)
24. Carcass Island, Falklands (October 25, 2010)
25. Return To Stanley (October 26, 2010)
26. Bhutan is so Appealing: explained (December 8, 2010)
27. The People of Bhutan, the nicest you'll ever meet (Dec. 10, 2010)
28. Good Governance in Bhutan (December 14, 2010)
29. Wat Phu Champasak, southern Laos (October 18, 2010)
30. Luang Prabang, Laos (February 28, 2011)
31. Bhutan, (Not Quite) The King and I (March 3, 2011)
32. Thimphu, Bhutan (March 9, 2011)
Make
Believe Country
(December
5, 2009)
Just
a few weeks ago Dorji, my Bhutanese guide was
traveling to London, and had to make connection
in Munich. Immigration officer stopped him as
she had never seen a Bhutanese passport nor heard
of Bhutan, She thought he was traveling on a fake
passport from some make believe country. It took
some minutes to sort this out.
Yet it does feel like a place out of a fairly
tale. The plane crests the Himalayas, and the
range of snowy peaks are all one sees (well, if
you sit on the left side of the plane). Soon you
are far below the peaks and flying inside the
valley walls for minutes before the jet alights.
As in earlier days of air travel, you actually
step out of the plane on to the tarmac. And face
the terminal, a building unlike any you've seen
before. The first timers are apparent, snapping
photos of it as they approach. It's stacked timber
and stone, the timbers carved and painted elaborately
with Buddhist motifs, which you don't understand,
and then the stone, all stuccoed white, and painted
with creatures from this world and the realm of
fantasy. Eye catching it is, and might lead one
to wonder why they chose this design. Before the
day is over, it's apparent. This same design governs
all construction, be it 4 centuries or 4 months
old, Bhutanese architecture adheres to the same
style.
Bhutanese build to suit the climate and terrain.
Most homes are sturdy 3 story structures. The
first floor is stone or rammed earth, with vertical
timber supports. The beams of second and third
floor all hand hewn and fitted together without
nails even today. Each visible piece of wood carved
and painted. Windows all in rows of 3,4, or 5,
set in painted wood frames with rounded bubble
like tops, meant to imitate clouds. The sloped
roof has a dormer in the center, protruding above
the rest, so that air circulates, as the top story
is where food is stored, and grain is dried. Once
most roofs were plank like wood shingles, weighted
down with small boulders. Or slate shingles. Now
most roofs are corrugated metal, all painted red
or green. The government recognizes the durability
of these roofs, so it made one of its few concessions
to non traditional building style. Government
decree states that all structures must be built
in traditional style, which gives everything a
harmonious and pleasing aesthetic. It is not unlike
traditional building in Tibet, before Chinese
occupation. Though Bhutan is mostly forested,
while Tibet is above the tree line, so they did
not use wood extensively as does Bhutan. The local
style, in 3 words: Tudor meets Tibet.
Buddhist prayer flags dominate the vistas. Either
multicolored squares strung horizontally, from
trees, buildings and bridges, in places so dense
they blot out the scenery beyond, reminiscent
of the work of the artist Cristo. But these are
not the doing of one mans oversize ego, but rather
the collective expression of faith in this devout
Buddhist country. The flags are printed with the
script of many prayers, and as they flap in the
wind they release prayers. Other prayer flags
are attached vertically to 20' poles. Generally
in groups of 108, they commemorate a deceased
person, and themselves appear groves of ghostly
trees in the forest.
When taking pictures in Bhutan, if you can shoot
a vista that contains neither a vehicle nor electricity
cable, you could pass it off as a picture taken
in the 16th century. Yes I know, no cameras back
then.................
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