BHUTAN: LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON
13 NIGHT JOURNEY
April 3 - 16, 2012
Rates for journey at bottom of page
Bhutan: the last Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom. This formerly little known Hermit Kingdom is changing rapidly. While you don’t have to visit before the advent of fast food and strip malls (no chance of this due to wise development policy), it does make for a unique destination in terms of what one can see and experience. Isolated from the world until 1960, with no roads, electricity, running water, schools, hospitals, postal service or currency, Bhutan has leapt from the Middle Ages to the 21st century in just 50 years. A visit to Bhutan has the feel of a trip back in time, though with every bit of comfort the 21st century has to offer.
This trip will be lead by Dorji Khandup and John Leupold. Dorji has worked as a guide in Bhutan for 20 years, since the age of 18. Eight years ago he founded his own company. He is one of the very few Bhutanese licensed as both cultural and trekking guide. With his network of contacts across Bhutan it is assured that the trip operates smoothly, plus his connections open doors to places not generally seen by outsiders. And his knowledge and personality make him a pleasure to be with. John has made 11 visits to Bhutan over the past 4 years; always with Dorji as guide and the two of them make a great team with which to experience this unique country.On this walking and cultural tour we’ll visit the enormous Dzongs (fortresses and monasteries), the most iconic buildings in Bhutan. These massive structures with their inward sloping walls stand guard over most Bhutanese towns, built for protection against marauding Tibetans. Constructed 400 years ago, and still in use today, the only significant change being the addition of electricity, and the elimination of the army (no threat of invading Tibetans now). Dorji will obtain all the necessary permits to visit the inner most sections within the Dzongs, generally off limits to foreigners. We will also visit schools and clinics, museums, artist studios and will be invited into the homes of some of our Bhutanese friends.
Our visit will coincide with the Paro Tshechu. The tshechu is an exuberant dance festival, performed yearly by local monks and lay people who study for months to learn the dances. The events are wildly colorful with elaborate costumes and masks. While the tshechu is a religious event, there is nothing solemn about it. Think Mardi Gras, before its commercialization. The setting of the tshechu is also lovely, in the courtyard of the Paro dzong
Some days we will have a scheduled 1 to 3 mile hike. These walks will be lead by our guide, who has covered Bhutan on foot and knows the most scenic and interesting paths in the country Additional hikes can be arranged. All hikes are optional, for those who might want to sit out any given hike.Our travels will take us from the high altitudes of Thimphu, Paro and Trongsa (6,500’-7,500’) to the lower semi- tropical elevations of Punakha and Wangdue (4,500’-5,000’). Along the way the road cuts through forest of pine and cedar, rhododendron and dogwood, and bamboo and daphne. We’ll pass through untouched forests, and see hamlets, small towns, and isolated homes perched on mountainsides, and terraced fields of rice, wheat, and potatoes. Our journey will be by private small bus, with enough seats to accommodate all of us comfortably, chauffeured by an experienced government licensed local driver. Our lodging will be in comfortable hotels, some old converted homes of affluent Bhutanese, others in stylish new buildings. All rooms have flush toilets, hot and cold running water, good beds, heat, and in most cases cable TV and WIFI connections. NOTE: In Paro and Thimphu there are upgrade hotel options, for an additional cost, (the ZHIWA LING, in Paro, the TAJ TASHI in Thimphu). Meals will consist of hearty amounts of Bhutanese food, plus an assortment of Indian and Chinese specialties. Several varieties of meat, vegetable and grains will be served at each meal. Almost all meals will be buffet style, this seems to be the way foreigners are fed in Bhutan; give them an abundance of choices and let them pick what they prefer. If you have eaten in a Tibetan restaurant, the food will be familiar. Vegetarian options are numerous. Those with food allergies or dietary restrictions are gladly accommodated.
While Bhutanese cuisine is not much known outside Bhutan, it does have some unique and tasty specialties. Many of the chefs have made developed their own style of cooking, incorporating new elements into traditional Bhutanese cooking. We’ll dine in some of the restaurants where we’ve discovered interesting and tasty food. Some chefs will invite us into their kitchens and permit us to watch them cook. In the markets we’ll see the abundance of fresh food available (almost everything in Bhutan is fresh and obtained from local markets). And we’ll be able to sample and buy ‘tingay’ a unique spice that not only tastes good, but also actually causes ones tongue to vibrate, providing sensation as well as taste.
Tourism is new to Bhutan, so you will find only a handful of other visitors (tourist numbers are restricted by permitting only 2 flights per day to Bhutan). The people are genuine and friendly and all speak English, the language of education since 1960.
DAY 1
Arrive Paro, and check into Gangtey Palace Hotel. The Paro Tshechu (festival) has the town in an exuberant mood and full of people. Your first Bhutanese meal in restaurant in downtown Paro, followed by exploration of Paro town and a short visit to the festival. Those wanting to rest can return to the hotel. Spend late afternoon and evening relaxing at the Gangtey Palace Hotel grounds, the former home of a noble family.
DAY 2
After breakfast we drive to the Paro Dzong, site of the tshechu. This festival consists of a series of dances and ceremonies. They are performed as they have been for centuries, and each immortalizes a particular event in Bhutanese history. The majority of the attendees will be Bhutanese, for whom these yearly festivals are a significant event. Our guide, Dorji will explain what we are viewing. Overnight at the Gangtey Palace Hotel.
DAY 3
In the morning we return to the dzong to experience more of the tshechu. Each day sees different dances, events and has its own tempo. For those who prefer not to revisit the Tsechu, you are free to wander around Paro town with Dorji or John. Late lunch in Paro, followed by a two hour drive to Thimphu, one of the world’s smallest capitals. An evening on the town permits us to see how Bhutanese have adapted to the 21st century. Overnight at Phuntsho Pelri Hotel.
DAY 4
A full day in Thimphu, starting with a 2-hour hike to Wangdi-tshe monastery. It was built in 1750, and impressively perched above the above the Thimphu valley, surrounded by pine and rhododendron forest. The monastery is still in use today we will see the monk’s quarters, the elaborate sculptures of butter and the many gold covered statues of the Buddha around the altar. Afternoon visit to the School of Traditional Handicrafts, founded 4 centuries ago, and whose graduates are responsible for the distinctive Bhutanese look seen across the country. The students here are very friendly; interacting with them is both pleasant and interesting. Overnight at Phuntsho Pelri Hotel.
DAY 5
Morning visit to National Textile Museum followed by visit to weaving collective. Next visit a paper-making factory, where centuries old techniques are still in use. After lunch we depart Thimphu to drive east, over Dochu La Pass, at 10,130 feet. This high pass is considered sacred, so is festooned with thousand of prayer flags. The views are impressive, with mountains in the distance, and magnolia and rhododendron forest in the foreground. From here we descend into semi tropical lowland. In the late afternoon we alight from the vehicle for optional 2 mile walk along the road through attractive villages. In the vehicle again we drive the final hour to arrive just outside of Punakha town, to overnight at the Hotel Zangto Pelri.
DAY 6
Spend the morning exploring the lovely Punakha Dzong, architecturally one of the finest Dzongs. Afternoon hike to Chimi Lhakhang, built in 1499 this temple commemorates the demoness subjugated by the Lama Drukpa Kunley (the Divine Madman). Overnight at Hotel Zangto Pelri.
DAY 7
Depart Punakha after breakfast to drive east, across mostly uninhabited land, the Black Mountains, covered with forest consisting of rhododendrons, bamboo, magnolias, and conifers. Our drive takes us over Pele La Pass. At 10,830 feet this is the highest elevation we reach in Bhutan. At this altitude the scenery is dwarf bamboo with many yak herds. Pele La is considered the traditional boundary between eastern and western Bhutan. Early afternoon stop at Chendebji Chorten, one of the few Nepali style chortens in Bhutan. Lunch stop at restaurant along the river. Continue to Trongsa, where we spend the night at Yangkhil Resort, just outside of town, facing the Trongsa Dzong.
DAY 8
After breakfast an hours drive past waterfalls and terraced rice fields to Kuenga Rabten, winter palace of the second king of Bhutan, Jigme Wanchuk. Then visit Trongsa Dzong, strategically and spectacularly located above the river. Due to its enormous size, it is considered the most impressive of all Bhutan’s Dzongs. Explore Trongsa town, small yet interesting and very friendly. Overnight at Yangkhil Resort.
DAY 9
Today’s drive takes us west to Wangdue, retracing our route back across the Black Mountains to reach the hotel by mid afternoon. Overnight at Dragon Nest Hotel overlooking the Wangdue River.
DAY 10
Morning visit to the Wangdue Dzong, unlike most dzongs as it has retained its original roof of large shingles lashed together with twine and held down by large stones. After lunch we return to Thimphu. Late afternoon at leisure to explore Thimphu. Overnight at Phuntsho Pelri Hotel.
DAY 11
Another full day to explore Thimphu. Overnight at Phuntsho Pelri Hotel.
DAY 12
Afternoon drive to Paro, and time to explore Paro or relax at the Gangtey Palace Hotel. Optional hot stone bath, Bhutan’s answer to the hot tub. Very relaxing and refreshing.
Day 13
After hearty breakfast we drive to base of mountain where Taktsang Monastery is located. Also known as Tiger’s Nest, probably the most iconic building in Bhutan, perched on a cliff 2700 feet above the valley floor. It appears to be glued into a concavity on the bare rock. It is said that the Guru Rimpoche arrived here by flying tiger in 746, and meditated in a cave for 3 months. The monastery was built to commemorate his visit. The site has long been recognized as holy in Bhutan. Whether your western mind can wrap itself around this story or not, you cannot fail to find the site majestic, and the 3-hour ascent both arduous and spectacular. (Burros are available to carry you halfway to Tiger’s Nest). Return to Gangtey Palace Hotel for farewell dinner.
DAY 14
Breakfast at hotel, then transfer to airport for flight home.
TOTAL COST PER PERSON FOR THIRTEEN (13) NIGHTS IN BHUTAN
(Inclusive of food, accommodations, ground transportation, entrance fees, services of licensed Bhutanese guide and driver, services of U.S. tour leader, Bhutanese visa and airport taxes):
$5050. (Based on DOUBLE OCCUPANCY):
$5600. (SINGLE ROOM)
UPGRADE HOTEL OPTIONS:
ZHIWA LING HOTEL in Paro. This new Bhutanese owned 5 star hotel has every amenity expected of such a hotel, and is an architectural gem. For those electing to stay here there is daily surcharge of $277 per room.
TAJ TAHSI in Thimphu. This new hotel, part of the Taj chain is another beautiful property, again with every amenity expected in a 5 star hotel, is in central Thimphu. For those electing to stay here, the daily surcharge is $480 plus $35 during Paro Tshechu time (our first visit to Thimphu occurs during Paro Tsechu, second visit to Thimphu would not incur the $35 charge).
Elsewhere in Bhutan there are no upgrade hotels, however it must be noted that all hotels are very pleasant and comfortable.
Note: Gratuities, beverages, laundry, souvenirs, travel insurance, and international airfare not included.
INTERNATIONAL AIRFARE:
Participants make their own flight arrangements to Bangkok, Thailand. Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airlines flies daily from Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan. The 4 hour flight departs at 7:00 a.m. arriving mid morning in Bhutan. Drukair uses comfortable Airbus 319 aircraft.
BANGKOK-PARO, BHUTAN, $910. Round trip
Please contact me at: john.leupold@yahoo.com with any questions
