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TRAVEL JOURNAL
1. State
of Emergency to State of Bliss (April
25, 2009)
2. Falling
for Bhutan (April 27, 2009)
3. Bad
habits in Bhutan (April 30, 2009)
4. The
National Crematorium (May 5, 2009)
5. TRONGSA (May 20, 2009)
6. The
Real Magic Kingdom (May 22, 2009)
7. The
Hub Club (May 23, 2009)
8. Back
to the Promised Land (November 29,
2009)
9. Make Believe
Country (December 5, 2009)
10. In
Bhutan, Skateboarding is a Crime (December
7, 2009)
11. Ride
of a Lifetime (December 11, 2009)
12. Government
Has a Campaign (December 14, 2009)
13. At the Carwash (December 17, 2009)
14. Driving to India (December 21, 2009)
15. Romeo & Juliet, the Indian Version (December 24, 2009)
16. Tiger Tracks (December 29, 2009)
17. How I learned to Text (December 31, 2009)
18. Pinatubo (January 19th 2010)
19. Catching a Buzz in Bhutan (July 13th, 2010)
20. Chilies and Cheese (July 15th, 2010)
21. The Falkand Islands (October 24, 2010)
22. Sea Lion Island, Falkland Islands (October 24, 2010)
23. The Falklands War (October 25, 2010)
24. Carcass Island, Falklands (October 25, 2010)
25. Return To Stanley (October 26, 2010)
26. Bhutan is so Appealing: explained (December 8, 2010)
27. The People of Bhutan, the nicest you'll ever meet (Dec. 10, 2010)
28. Good Governance in Bhutan (December 14, 2010)
29. Wat Phu Champasak, southern Laos (October 18, 2010)
30. Luang Prabang, Laos (February 28, 2011)
31. Bhutan, (Not Quite) The King and I (March 3, 2011)
32. Thimphu, Bhutan (March 9, 2011)
Back
to the Promised Land
(November
29, 2009)
OK,
so God did not promise this bit of real estate
to Abraham nor anyone else, and the only Jews
here are a handful of tourists, and bibles, old
or new testament are close to non existent. But
at the risk of sounding sacrilegious, this is
my Promised Land: Bhutan, pulls me like gravity,
and here I am for my 6th visit.
Tiny Bhutan is the meager filling sandwiched between
India and China. It's all mountains, and these
peaks are responsible for Bhutan never having
been conquered or colonized. Unkind terrain to
any potential invader. These same Himalayan peaks
kept the Bhutanese isolated, so that until 1960
there were no relations with the outside world,
nor any of the technological advances that the
rest of the world took for granted. No cars, roads,
currency, electricity, running water. Bhutan was
400 years behind the rest of the world. In 50
short years the Bhutanese have acquired all the
amenities of the 21st century, while keeping all
the aesthetics of the 17th century. It's as close
to time travel as you can get, and you only need
a visa, not a wayback machine.
Late fall by the calendar, but winter as far as
the Bhutanese are concerned, with mornings just
above freezing and days in the 60's. The Bhutanese
are distinctively attired, as most men wear ghos
(an ankle length robe, when tied and elaborately
pleated if falls to the knees, and looks much
like a dress, combined with shiny black shoes
and ankle socks), and the women wear kiras, ankle
length skirts with a tunic like vest above the
waist. The ever present monks wear red robes,
which fold and drape in such a way that they appear
to float when they step quickly. Most everyone
has added scarfs, a multitude of varieties, around
the neck and shoulders, or covering their mouths,
it's apparent they are aiming for looks as well
as function. And hats, almost all the same variety
knitted by women in shops, always the same yarn
that has a bit of glitter to it. Crimson is the
most popular color, but mine is orangey brown.
No, I'm not attempting to blend in. Just keep
my ears warm.
I am usually the only foreigner in sight, as there
are so few outsiders in Bhutan. Only a few hundred
are admitted at any one time, and the winter low
season, coupled with the economic crisis as the
Bhutanese call it, sees even fewer tourists. Foreigners
cluster at the few hotels, but once on the street,
we are strongly diluted by the presence of locals.
In some places this might be cause for consternation,
though not here. These are a friendly people,
and on the street I frequently hear my name called,
acquaintances from previous visits.
The economic crisis, disrupting your lives and
mine, has left me with no clients on this trip
to Bhutan. In the past I've always had a small
group. I work with Dorji, a Bhutanese guide, as
all tourists are required to travel with a guide,
adhere to a preplanned itinerary, and pay a minimum
daily government mandated tariff. All this is
to minimize the disruption of tourism on local
culture and environment. So it makes Bhutan an
expensive destination, It also ensures all goes
smoothly and visitors get good insights and views
into Bhutan. Dorji, spoke with ministry of tourism,
and as I "promote tourism in Bhutan"
they have given me a 3 week trip, with Dorji and
a driver to explore parts of Bhutan I've not seen
before, as well as revisit areas I am already
familiar with. I consider myself one lucky person.
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